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E-3 C-AF (should also be E-620, E-30 applicable)

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  • E-3 C-AF (should also be E-620, E-30 applicable)

    In response to Ned's query:

    Quote:
    Originally Posted by AndyElliott
    - Turn off 'C-AF Lock' (default is on)
    - Set 'Release Priority C-AF' to off (default is on)


    I never knew about these options, Andy. Could you explain them a bit more, and what they do? I want to try this, as I don't usually use C-AF because it doesn't work so great on my E-3 (and Pen), but I know you get really great results with all your birds in flight and what-not.
    ..I thought I'd have another crack at sharing 'best settings' for shooting moving things with C-AF.

    There are a couple of older threads:

    http://fourthirds-user.com/forum/showthread.php?t=5176
    http://fourthirds-user.com/forum/showthread.php?t=4734

    ...but these probably need a bit of summarising and clarification, so here goes...

    (I'll do this as a series of replies to this post to try to organise things a wee bit better)

    Andy
    Last edited by AndyElliott; 18th January 2010, 10:20 PM.
    Olympus E-M1 ZD 7-14 f4, 300 f2.8, PL 25 f1.4D
    mZuiko 12-40 f2.8 Pro, 60 f2.8, 40-150 f2.8 Pro
    EC-14, EC-20, HLD-7
    Metz 58 AF-1&2 , Manfrotto 441, Gimbal Head, Velbon Neopod 74


    Gallery: http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/elliott.aje.andy

    Website: 361photography.com 361wild.com

    "Oly_OM" @ e_group

  • #2
    C-AF and File Settings

    C-AF and File Settings (tested on v1.4 of E-3 firmware)

    1. C-AF Lock - set it to 'OFF' (default='ON')
      Normally this is 'on'. The idea is that anything moves in front of you while you are panning (e.g. spectator stands up at the ball game) and the lens isn't forced to refocus. I find this harms the normal C-AF performance - especially when the moving object is moving nearer or further away from you - the refocussing doesn't happen fast enough for anything other than the slowest things. So, I prefer it OFF.
    2. C-AF Release Priority - set it to 'OFF' (default='ON')
      The release priority allows an exposure to be taken without a good AF lock (setting is 'ON'). By setting it to 'OFF', the shutter doesn't release until a good (in practise, let's call it 'better' rather than 'perfect'!) AF lock is achieved. In experiments I have done, the number of shots you can reel off with continuous shutter firing is only slightly lower with the release priority 'OFF' than with 'ON', but the percentage of in-focus shots is much, much higher, leading to more 'keepers' overall.
    3. 'L' Mode Continuous Shooting, set at 4 fps (you might more obviously choose 'H' mode at 5 fps)
      First thing is, you never get 4 or 5 fps with C-AF turned on. The processing load of doing the focussing and the streaming of lots of data to the CF card just doesn't allow 5 fps. The reason for setting it at 'L' 4fps rather 'H' 5fps is that the load on the Truepic III processor is reduced marginally, possibly with different weightings on the data and focussing threads. The end result is the focussing is both more stable and more able to respond to changes in the moving object. The E-30 may (no proof) be better in this regard, having the Truepic III+ processor (also allowing art filters), so it may have more oomph! However, that may be negated by the larger file size (10MP vs 12MP).
    4. Raw files only - not JPG or Raw+JPG
      As for point (3), above, this is an issue of processor load. The files are larger with raw, but there is more for the processor to do generate the JPG files. After some testing, the conclusion is that raw wins in terms of C-AF responsiveness and stability.
    Last edited by AndyElliott; 18th January 2010, 10:20 PM.
    Olympus E-M1 ZD 7-14 f4, 300 f2.8, PL 25 f1.4D
    mZuiko 12-40 f2.8 Pro, 60 f2.8, 40-150 f2.8 Pro
    EC-14, EC-20, HLD-7
    Metz 58 AF-1&2 , Manfrotto 441, Gimbal Head, Velbon Neopod 74


    Gallery: http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/elliott.aje.andy

    Website: 361photography.com 361wild.com

    "Oly_OM" @ e_group

    Comment


    • #3
      Memory Cards

      Memory Cards

      The faster the better - even if you don't fill the buffer (17 frames), the processor will still need to write to the card, if the card is always imposing waits while it writes to the flash memory, this will slow things up. xD cards are horrible. Please avoid them...
      Last edited by AndyElliott; 18th January 2010, 10:21 PM.
      Olympus E-M1 ZD 7-14 f4, 300 f2.8, PL 25 f1.4D
      mZuiko 12-40 f2.8 Pro, 60 f2.8, 40-150 f2.8 Pro
      EC-14, EC-20, HLD-7
      Metz 58 AF-1&2 , Manfrotto 441, Gimbal Head, Velbon Neopod 74


      Gallery: http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/elliott.aje.andy

      Website: 361photography.com 361wild.com

      "Oly_OM" @ e_group

      Comment


      • #4
        AF Points

        AF Points

        The most responsive way (fastest to respond to a change in the moving object distance) is with a single point (set the AF Point size to 'Normal', not 'Small'). This is essential for fast response when the moving object heading straight at you. There is a major drawback, you need to have the skill and practise to keep the AF point on the moving object (in the worst case, the same bit of the moving object).

        So, start with single point (perhaps even choose to the left or right of centre, as appropriate). If that fails in a panning shot, you can try the 'diamond' pattern - good, as it allows a shaky panning technique, but not as responsive. For very fast flying things (e.g. falcons - owls, eagles, hawks and aircraft are relatively slow!), all-points may be the right answer if you struggle to keep up with them. All-points has the disadvantage of being thrown off sometimes when there is a confusing background - so works best for things in the sky.
        Olympus E-M1 ZD 7-14 f4, 300 f2.8, PL 25 f1.4D
        mZuiko 12-40 f2.8 Pro, 60 f2.8, 40-150 f2.8 Pro
        EC-14, EC-20, HLD-7
        Metz 58 AF-1&2 , Manfrotto 441, Gimbal Head, Velbon Neopod 74


        Gallery: http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/elliott.aje.andy

        Website: 361photography.com 361wild.com

        "Oly_OM" @ e_group

        Comment


        • #5
          Image Stabilisation

          Image Stabilisation

          IS can actually try to defeat your panning, leading to a nice, sharp background and your moving object blurred! If you have a reasonably fast shutter speed (much faster 1/1000s), IS can normally be turned OFF.

          For lower speeds, make use of IS mode 2 (horizontal panning type shots) or IS mode 3 (vertical - E-30 only, E-3 doesn't have this mode )
          Olympus E-M1 ZD 7-14 f4, 300 f2.8, PL 25 f1.4D
          mZuiko 12-40 f2.8 Pro, 60 f2.8, 40-150 f2.8 Pro
          EC-14, EC-20, HLD-7
          Metz 58 AF-1&2 , Manfrotto 441, Gimbal Head, Velbon Neopod 74


          Gallery: http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/elliott.aje.andy

          Website: 361photography.com 361wild.com

          "Oly_OM" @ e_group

          Comment


          • #6
            Shutter Speed

            Shutter Speed

            It depends how fast your moving object is, but you'll need to experiment to get an optimal shutter speed. For birds, I use between 1/500s (slowest) and 1/2000s (fastest) - obviously faster, is going to be sharper, but you may not get a nice blurred background. Remember that fast shutter speeds freeze the props on aircraft - which is generally frowned upon, so you may need a slower speed.
            Olympus E-M1 ZD 7-14 f4, 300 f2.8, PL 25 f1.4D
            mZuiko 12-40 f2.8 Pro, 60 f2.8, 40-150 f2.8 Pro
            EC-14, EC-20, HLD-7
            Metz 58 AF-1&2 , Manfrotto 441, Gimbal Head, Velbon Neopod 74


            Gallery: http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/elliott.aje.andy

            Website: 361photography.com 361wild.com

            "Oly_OM" @ e_group

            Comment


            • #7
              Exposure

              Exposure

              If you moving object has a variable background (e.g. sky, then ground, then trees, then sky again) as it moves, exposure can be a problem. The usual problem on P, A or S modes is the moving object appears as a silhouette against a bright sky. Exposure compensation only goes so far to correct this. I shoot totally manual as a way out. For birds, this usually means shooting green grass (to get an approximation of a 18% grey card) and adjusting the aperture to f4 on the 50-200 and setting the shutter speed so the meter (use spot mode) says 0EV. Take a few test shots of the bird, check for clipping and histogram and adjust the shutter speed accordingly. Remember, white things need a higher speed to avoid clipping! Also remember, if the light changes, you must alter the settings! The aperture choice is really about getting the correct depth-of-field, and should be chosen to suit the situation.

              Edit: Incidentally, this issue is one all camera users face. The manual exposure recommendation came from a friend who does this with his Canon 1D!
              Last edited by AndyElliott; 19th January 2010, 09:08 PM.
              Olympus E-M1 ZD 7-14 f4, 300 f2.8, PL 25 f1.4D
              mZuiko 12-40 f2.8 Pro, 60 f2.8, 40-150 f2.8 Pro
              EC-14, EC-20, HLD-7
              Metz 58 AF-1&2 , Manfrotto 441, Gimbal Head, Velbon Neopod 74


              Gallery: http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/elliott.aje.andy

              Website: 361photography.com 361wild.com

              "Oly_OM" @ e_group

              Comment


              • #8
                Technique

                Technique

                1. Start with the focus on the moving object while it is at rest, if possible. Do this by half-pressing the shutter release button and holding it down.
                2. If the moving object is already moving, get the lock first, half-press and track the moving object before firing off a few shots.
                3. Try to get bursts of shots with gaps in between where you are tracking the moving object with the button half-pressed to allow the focussing time to adjust without the processor worrying about writing data to the card. If you lose focus, keep on tracking, release the button and half press again to regain the focus
                4. Practise! Your keeper rate will improve significantly with practise and deteriorate if you are tired or are not feeling well!
                Olympus E-M1 ZD 7-14 f4, 300 f2.8, PL 25 f1.4D
                mZuiko 12-40 f2.8 Pro, 60 f2.8, 40-150 f2.8 Pro
                EC-14, EC-20, HLD-7
                Metz 58 AF-1&2 , Manfrotto 441, Gimbal Head, Velbon Neopod 74


                Gallery: http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/elliott.aje.andy

                Website: 361photography.com 361wild.com

                "Oly_OM" @ e_group

                Comment


                • #9
                  The End

                  That's it!

                  I think that wraps it up - I'll add more if I think of it.
                  Olympus E-M1 ZD 7-14 f4, 300 f2.8, PL 25 f1.4D
                  mZuiko 12-40 f2.8 Pro, 60 f2.8, 40-150 f2.8 Pro
                  EC-14, EC-20, HLD-7
                  Metz 58 AF-1&2 , Manfrotto 441, Gimbal Head, Velbon Neopod 74


                  Gallery: http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/elliott.aje.andy

                  Website: 361photography.com 361wild.com

                  "Oly_OM" @ e_group

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Re: The End

                    Thank you, Andy!

                    You are an invaluable pool of information.
                    Olympus E-3 | Olympus E-PL2 PEN | Olympus E-PM1 PEN | Zuiko ED 50-200mm f/2.8-3.5 SWD | Zuiko 14-54mm f/2.8-3.5 | Vivitar 100mm f/2.8 Macro | Carl Zeiss Sonnar 135mm f/2.8 | Konica Hexanon 50mm f/1.4 | Konica Hexanon 85mm f/1.8 | G.Zuiko 50mm f/1.4 | Zuiko 35mm f/3.5 Macro | Zuiko 25mm f/2.8 | KMZ Jupiter-3 50mm f/1.5 | E.Zuiko 200mm f/4 | Zuiko 75-150mm f/4 | Olympus EC-14 teleconverter | VF-2 and VF-3 Viewfinders | EMA-1 Mic Adapter | Olympus FL-36R and FL-50R speedlights

                    cyclopsphoto.ca

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Re: The End

                      Originally posted by AndyElliott View Post
                      That's it!

                      I think that wraps it up - I'll add more if I think of it.

                      Thanks Andy, I look forward to a higher keeper rate. Never was that sucessful with c-af. Hope this evens things up a little.
                      ------------------------------------------------------------
                      E3, E510, 50-200SWD, 14-54 Mk1, 35mm Macro, 14-42 Kit, 200mm & 300mm legacys, HDL-4 & Manfrotto tripod & head.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Re: The End

                        Well said Ned, totally agree

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Re: The End

                          Thanks, guys.

                          Let me know how you get on and post some pics!

                          Andy
                          Olympus E-M1 ZD 7-14 f4, 300 f2.8, PL 25 f1.4D
                          mZuiko 12-40 f2.8 Pro, 60 f2.8, 40-150 f2.8 Pro
                          EC-14, EC-20, HLD-7
                          Metz 58 AF-1&2 , Manfrotto 441, Gimbal Head, Velbon Neopod 74


                          Gallery: http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/elliott.aje.andy

                          Website: 361photography.com 361wild.com

                          "Oly_OM" @ e_group

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Re: The End

                            Originally posted by AndyElliott View Post
                            Thanks, guys.

                            Let me know how you get on and post some pics!

                            Andy

                            OK here goes. The first time I have tried to upload pikkies into a post. We'll see what happens...

                            .................................................. .............

                            Okay, that didn't work. What does it mean by URL of my image?
                            I put in the path to the images on my computer, but no go. :\

                            Guidance would be appreciated.
                            ------------------------------------------------------------
                            E3, E510, 50-200SWD, 14-54 Mk1, 35mm Macro, 14-42 Kit, 200mm & 300mm legacys, HDL-4 & Manfrotto tripod & head.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Re: The End

                              Originally posted by Sights View Post
                              OK here goes. The first time I have tried to upload pikkies into a post. We'll see what happens...

                              .................................................. .............

                              Okay, that didn't work. What does it mean by URL of my image?
                              I put in the path to the images on my computer, but no go. :\

                              Guidance would be appreciated.

                              That means if you have an image stored on another web server (i.e. something beginning with http:// etc.).

                              The best way is to upload to the gallery here. Click on the "Galleries" header, then "My Photos" then "Upload Photos" ( the last being on the right of the web page). You then have a page where you can upload up to 5 pictures at a time (click the various browse buttons to find the JPG on your PC, then 'Submit/Upload'). You can optionally choose to add it to an album you have previously created (not an essential step) and categorise it as well. Once the upload happens, you should see you set of images where you can add comments, if you want to, then press the button at the bottom of the page to commit them to the gallery.

                              Once they are in the gallery, you can include them in a post by first clicking 'Go Advanced' rather than 'Post quick reply' and pressing the 'My Pics' link on the right of the advanced posting screen. A pop-up (make sure pop-up windows are allowed for this site in your browser) appears showing a list of thumbnails of your pictures together with a drop down as to how they should be inserted into your post (e.g. a thumbnail with a link to the gallery or the original image etc.) when you click on the image.

                              Andy
                              Olympus E-M1 ZD 7-14 f4, 300 f2.8, PL 25 f1.4D
                              mZuiko 12-40 f2.8 Pro, 60 f2.8, 40-150 f2.8 Pro
                              EC-14, EC-20, HLD-7
                              Metz 58 AF-1&2 , Manfrotto 441, Gimbal Head, Velbon Neopod 74


                              Gallery: http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/elliott.aje.andy

                              Website: 361photography.com 361wild.com

                              "Oly_OM" @ e_group

                              Comment

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