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View Full Version : 50-200 SWD & Ring Flash RF-11



Simon Bee
9th March 2011, 10:28 PM
Hello all,

I have just received a very nice "used" Olympus ring flash outfit made up of the FC-1 controller and the RF-11 flash however try as I may I cannot get the ring flash to bayonet mount onto the 50-200 SWD.

According to the manual it is designed to fit straight onto the 50-200 lens .... does anyone know if there is a difference in the front bayonets of the original 50-200 and my 50-200 SWD , if there is then I guess this is where the problem lies, I cannot see any damage to the bayonet of the ring flash and the lens bayonet is fine .

If there is a difference is there an adapter available ? But given how "snug" the fit is I doubt there would be room for an adapter to fit anyway so my thinking is that the ring flash will only fit onto the non SWD version of the lens :\

I will be grateful for any help with this problem, many thanks Simon

David M
10th March 2011, 02:09 AM
Hello all,

According to the manual it is designed to fit straight onto the 50-200 lens .... does anyone know if there is a difference in the front bayonets of the original 50-200 and my 50-200 SWD , if there is then I guess this is where the problem lies

so my thinking is that the ring flash will only fit onto the non SWD version of the lens :\

I will be grateful for any help with this problem, many thanks Simon

It's as you thought, it was designed to fit the original 50-200 and they changed the bayonet on the SWD.

photo_owl
10th March 2011, 03:48 PM
....According to the manual it is designed to fit straight onto the 50-200 lens .... does anyone know if there is a difference in the front bayonets of the original 50-200 and my 50-200 SWD..........

Simon

yes there is, no it doesn't and I don't know of any workarounds (apart from hot melt glue which I frequently use to stick mine onto the front of my bellows... it just peels off both things after use)

Ian
10th March 2011, 03:52 PM
Yes, this is an oddity. The Twin Flash set has a more versatile adapter that has multiple size threads that attach to the filter thread on the lens so it's compatible with a far wider range of lenses.

Ian

Simon Bee
10th March 2011, 11:13 PM
Thanks to everyone who has so far replied, as I guessed there is an incompatibility issue which makes you wonder why on earth Olympus would change the hood bayonets of the two versions. I am aware that the design of the hood for my SWD is different to the earlier lens but as the filter diameter is the same for both lenses why change the bayonet to the point where it becomes incompatible ? :confused:

I am considering the purchase of the 50mm macro and that's one way around the problem, I know I will also need the adapter ( FR1 I believe ) to fit the ring light to the 50mm and here lies another issue ..... why on earth does it have to retail for around 130 :eek: I don't mind and in fact expect to pay a "premium" for such a component but 130 for crying out loud, does anyone know if it's at least made of metal ( still never worth it ) or am I looking at the prospect of paying 130 for a piece of plastic tube :mad:

One possible option for my SWD is to find a screw-on lens hood of similar diameter to the ring flash and use a rubber seal of some sort to fit over the hood so as to be able to push the ring flash onto it and thus provide a firm but not permanent mount. The hood could be attached to the filter thread of the lens via stepping rings if needed, perhaps this is the route I should go, I will look into it and if I come up with a suitable work-around I will let you all know.

Once again many thanks Simon

jimindenver
11th March 2011, 05:46 AM
I know of three solutions to your dilemma. I'll describe the first two and then show you what I have done.

The first requires the bayonet from a original 50-200 or 14-54. You may still be able to find them from Olympus.
Also is needed a old filter of the size to fit the threads on the new 50-200.(67mm?) I would say a CP as it will allow the RF to stay while the lens rotates to focus.
Basically, Remove the glass from the filter and glue the bayonet to it. Now you can thread the adapter to the new 50-200 and fit the RF to it.

Step down rings will allow for other lenses to be used.

The second on is a adaption to my solution but required a machinist to do.
Get a Cokin filter holder of the right thread size, it will be too big to go in the RF. Trace the outline of the bayonet onto the filter holder and remove the access. Thread it on the lens and the RF will fit.

I may be able to find the outline. I can also tell you that my bench grinder is too much as the holder is aluminum and warped when I tried it.

As above step down rings allow for other rings.

My solution is cruder but cheaper and easier than the first too. It also uses a Cokin filter holder. These photos are from the one I made for use on my 8080 and some OM lenses.

I scared the finish on the holder on the out side and glued 3 pieces of aircraft light plywood to it in the proper position for the RF to connect to them. Popsicle sticks will do. I used Super glue jel to glue the sticks in place.

If you made a 67mm sized one, you could use step down rings to attach to any smaller lenses.

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j114/Jimindenver/7-14%20and%20RF%20test/P1040314.jpg


http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j114/Jimindenver/7-14%20and%20RF%20test/P1040757.jpg


http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j114/Jimindenver/7-14%20and%20RF%20test/P1040747.jpg

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j114/Jimindenver/7-14%20and%20RF%20test/P1040750.jpg

It has been very sturdy and if I were worried about appearances I could paint it black but the bugs don't seem to mind.

One thing to consider. The SRF-11 was developed for the 50mm with the RF-1. The adapter has the same sized bayonet as the old 14-54 and 50-200 but it keeps the weight off of the barrel of the lens.

put the weight on the barrel of any lens stresses the focusing motors as well as the general structure of the lens.

Even the info on the Twinflash shows it being used with the RF-1.

That said, I have use ringflash connected to the barrel on the 50-200, 70-300, 40-150, 14-45, Sigma 150, 3 om lenses and my C-8080 and haven't any failures yet. Just be mindful that extended use may cause issues.

Your idea of using rubber for a friction fit may work very well for the 35 mm macro. With it the ringflash has to be inline or slightly behind the face of the lens to have the light throw be on your subject at 1-1 macro.

Jim

jimindenver
11th March 2011, 05:52 AM
I meant to show the back side view also.

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j114/Jimindenver/7-14%20and%20RF%20test/P1040754-1.jpg

Hope it helped.

Jim

Simon Bee
16th March 2011, 10:43 PM
Well, "Where there's a will - there's a way !" I have been trying several ways to solve this dilemma elegantly and earlier this evening I believe I have "struck gold" so to speak.

I really wanted to come up with a solution that did not require using adhesives such as an epoxy resin or the like as it would be both unsightly and also not easily reversible. As previously mentioned I was considering some sought of "rubber bung" and tonight I have achieved my aim.

The solution to my and possibly many others dilemma is as follows:

1) I obtained a collapsable rubber lens hood of 58mm diameter
2) I turned the hood "inside - out" and then collapsed it flat
3) With firm but not excessive force I was able to "work" the hood into the aperture of the ring flash where it sits very snuggly
4) Next I mounted a "step - up ring" 67 - 72mm to the filter on my 50 -200 SWD
5) Then pushed the ring flash onto this step ring and twisted it slightly in a "bayonet" fashion
6) The rubber hood firmly grips the step ring and it is not easily "shaken off" , The camera can be held "lens down" and the ring flash stays in place.
7) The hood can quickly be removed from the ring flash if so desired and there is no damage to the flash.

The key to my success has been to use a "58mm rubber hood - Kaiser brand" ( Hoya and others could well work too ) and a step ring of 72mm at its largest end. Naturally by using further reducing rings one could mount lenses of smaller diameters too.

There is no strain on the 50-200 SWD as the front element does not rotate and the flash is also very light. I have also mounted this set - up to my 12-60 SWD without the need of the step-ring and it works very well at 60mm, showing only the "slightest" vignetting which can be cropped out, at wider settings vignetting naturally is more of a problem. With the 50-200 SWD set at 50mm there is no vignetting what-so-ever.

I am very pleased with the outcome of my endeavour and felt I should share it with everyone as it may be of benefit to others too. Please excuse the "snap shots" that I took very quickly, it was late and the light dim, so hand held - wide open, but should give you a good idea of my solution/work-around.

And the total cost of the parts required was the grand sum of 6.00 as I obtained both the hood and step-ring second hand.

Simon


Ah damn, I will have to post the images separately as I have used "quick reply" - should not be so excited and pay more attention !!

Simon Bee
16th March 2011, 11:00 PM
OK, hopefully here are the images:

Simon Bee
16th March 2011, 11:07 PM
And here are the remainder as I forgot we can only upload a max of 5 at a time.

This really does work and appears to be a very elegant solution for those with the SWD version of the 50-200 and also the 12-60.

Simon

Ian
17th March 2011, 09:28 AM
That looks like a very effective work around - well done!

Ian

Simon Bee
17th March 2011, 05:57 PM
That looks like a very effective work around - well done!

Ian

Thanks Ian,

It is indeed an effective work around and I'm very pleased that it didn't take me several months of "head scratching" to achieve the goal.

BTW, the reason for using a 58mm hood and not 67mm was that the 58mm fitted perfectly while the 67mm was too large in diameter when folded down. I did fear there would be quite severe vignetting but it turns out that at 50mm setting on the lens ( Olympus recommendation for using this lens with ring flash ) there is no vignetting at all:)

If anyone else has been wondering how to get around the problem of attaching the RF11 to a 50-200 SWD I hope they will find my method very helpful and more importantly "successful without costing a fortune" .

Regards Simon

mhobart
17th May 2011, 03:35 AM
Thanks Ian,

It is indeed an effective work around and I'm very pleased that it didn't take me several months of "head scratching" to achieve the goal.

BTW, the reason for using a 58mm hood and not 67mm was that the 58mm fitted perfectly while the 67mm was too large in diameter when folded down. I did fear there would be quite severe vignetting but it turns out that at 50mm setting on the lens ( Olympus recommendation for using this lens with ring flash ) there is no vignetting at all:)

If anyone else has been wondering how to get around the problem of attaching the RF11 to a 50-200 SWD I hope they will find my method very helpful and more importantly "successful without costing a fortune" .

Regards Simon

Ingenious. It looks like the Kaiser rubber lens hood does not have a metal filter attachment ring as do many these days. Is that correct, this is an all-rubber lens hood, right? If that's correct, does anyone know which of the many lens hoods on eBay or with photo retailers would be similar? :)

peak4
17th May 2011, 05:36 PM
I am considering the purchase of the 50mm macro and that's one way around the problem, I know I will also need the adapter ( FR1 I believe ) to fit the ring light to the 50mm and here lies another issue ..... why on earth does it have to retail for around 130 :eek: I don't mind and in fact expect to pay a "premium" for such a component but 130 for crying out loud, does anyone know if it's at least made of metal ( still never worth it ) or am I looking at the prospect of paying 130 for a piece of plastic tube :mad:
Simon

Simon, If you do eventually decide on either of the 50 or 35mm macros and want something that does not load the front of the lens, the official item can be obtained from GW Cameras for 60. Still wildly expensive, but a lot better than 130.
They sent me one fairly promptly, and yes it is made of metal and plastic.
The bad news is that it only fits the two macro lenses as there is a groove in the lens body specially for it.

Simon Bee
7th September 2011, 09:23 PM
Ingenious. It looks like the Kaiser rubber lens hood does not have a metal filter attachment ring as do many these days. Is that correct, this is an all-rubber lens hood, right? If that's correct, does anyone know which of the many lens hoods on eBay or with photo retailers would be similar? :)

Hi mhobart,

I'm sorry for not replying much sooner, I have only this evening revisited this thread of mine and came across your question ( I guess I should check my settings as I was not aware of your post ) , with regard to the Kaiser hood it "does" indeed have a metal filter/lens thread mount and this helps considerably with the snug fit in the aperture of the ring flash as its rigidity holds the compressed rubber of the hood firmly against the wall of the ring flash.

I have since purchased a 35mm macro and the Olympus adapter for attaching the ring flash to the lens, however my bespoke work-around still works very well when using the 50-200 SWD lens and I continue to use it.

Hope this is of help.

Simon

jcboy3
9th December 2013, 05:15 AM
The Olympus FR-2 adapter allows attachment of the Olympus RF-11 ring flash to a lens with 46mm filter thread. A 52mm to 46mm step down ring then allows attachment to my Nikon 55mm Micro lens.

I worry about vignetting with lenses that have larger filter thread (my Access 35-70 Macro has 58mm threads).

There is a robust solution: disassemble the FR-2 adapter (three tiny black screws, careful of the tiny silver washers). Then screw in a 67mm male-male adapter ring into the bayonet adapter ring that you removed from the FR-2. The bayonet adapter ring must be reversed but still works with the RF-11. Then use the appropriate step-up adapter ring or rings as needed to fit the lens.

This does not allow control of the orientation of the RF-11, so the power cord will be not necessarily be located at the top. This can be solved by getting a cheap 67mm polarizing filter, removing the glass, and using the frame to rotate the RF-11.

Finally, I've been looking for a cheap polarizing filter with a locking thumb screw, or something else like that that can lock the RF-11 in place. No luck yet. But at least the FR-2 allows for mounting of the RF-11 on any lens with a filter thread.

mhobart
9th December 2013, 08:17 AM
The Olympus FR-2 adapter allows attachment of the Olympus RF-11 ring flash to a lens with 46mm filter thread. A 52mm to 46mm step down ring then allows attachment to my Nikon 55mm Micro lens.

I worry about vignetting with lenses that have larger filter thread (my Access 35-70 Macro has 58mm threads).

There is a robust solution: disassemble the FR-2 adapter (three tiny black screws, careful of the tiny silver washers). Then screw in a 67mm male-male adapter ring into the bayonet adapter ring that you removed from the FR-2. The bayonet adapter ring must be reversed but still works with the RF-11. Then use the appropriate step-up adapter ring or rings as needed to fit the lens.

This does not allow control of the orientation of the RF-11, so the power cord will be not necessarily be located at the top. This can be solved by getting a cheap 67mm polarizing filter, removing the glass, and using the frame to rotate the RF-11.

Finally, I've been looking for a cheap polarizing filter with a locking thumb screw, or something else like that that can lock the RF-11 in place. No luck yet. But at least the FR-2 allows for mounting of the RF-11 on any lens with a filter thread.

Thanks :-) I had thought about looking into something like this but did not yet have a pressing need for such experimentation. At times I prove to be rather clumsy when working with very small pieces of hardware :-)

I see that the prices for the FR-2 adapter have dropped, so I might pick up a second one to experiment with.